SS24 ’The Chemical Basis of Morphogenesis”

The HELIOT EMIL SS24 collection, titled ‘The Chemical Basis of Morphogenesis’ draws inspiration from an article by mathematician and computer scientist Alan Turing written in 1952. Here, Turing explains the algorithmic relationship between unique patterns formed in nature and mathematics.

Intrigued by this, Creative Director Julius Juul sought to capture the interesting dynamic and complexity of morphogenesis in a collection that blends unique textures and patterns, with calculated mathematical approaches.

In 1950, Alan Turing posed the question: “are there imaginable digital computers which would do well in the imitation of humans?” Later known as: ‘The Turing Test’, he evaluates a machine’s ability to exhibit human-like intelligence, and question whether artificial intelligence can truly replicate the intricate nuances of human creativity.

This question became the integral component of the HELIOT EMIL SS24 project and installation which seeks to evaluate a machine’s ability to exhibit human-like intelligence, challenging whether artificial intelligence can truly replicate the intricate nuances of human creativity in fashion. With this project we aim to examine the blurred lines between human and AI design, challenging conventional perceptions of aesthetic complexity.